Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these stories and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
